I know that the notion of "set" is one that cannot be defined mathematically since it is the fundamental data type that is used to define everything else (and the definition which says that "sets" are the objects in any model of set theory is to me circular since models are defined in terms of sets).
It seems to me that there is another fundamental concept just like "set", namely the notion of a "variable". Is this true?
In pure mathematics there is no such thing as variable, there are only constants. Consider equality $a = 5$. This supposed "variable" isn't variable at all!
On the other hand, there are those curious letters in the formulas, what do they mean you ask? Well, those are informal expressions that describe the objects we reason about, however, they do not have any precise meaning, they are not formal. It doesn't contradict that the description of the object might be perfectly fine, after all you use natural language to describe the notion of set, don't you?
Still, there is a way of formalizing this and the domain which happens to deal with such problems is called semantics, where there actually is something that is called a variable, but all the formal derivations are usually long, tedious and cumbersome. Moreover semantics is more about computer science, where the precise meaning of an expression is important for the computer that is to evaluate it (it doesn't know anything about our informal notion of variable, so we need to explain everything in the tiniest details).
In mathematics we deal with those informal expressions and "pattern-match" them with suitable cases. If you do it properly, everyone knows what do you mean (i.e. what function you want to define, etc.) so there is no need to overformalize it.
I know what I wrote looks more like a peculiar fairytale than a concrete answer, but that's the way I understand it. Hope that helps, even if only a bit ;-)