If $\chi$ is the character of $\rho$, then $\overline{\chi}$ is the character of $\rho^*$ (dual) and $\chi_{irreducible} \iff \overline{\chi_{irreducible}}$.
This implies complex conjugation permutes the rows of a character table.
I cannot see why it is implied that complex conjugation would permute the rows of a character table. Why should the dual also be in the character table?
Nor can I see why complex conjugation swaps columns. It is just stated in my notes without any explanation.
I cannot find a good explanation in notes online
To see that the "dual" of an irreducible character is indeed an irreducible character:
Hint (mechanical).
Think about row orthogonality and how the inner product is defined (remember the set of irreducible characters is an orthonormal basis for the set of class functions).
Hint (representations).
Define a map $GL(V) \to GL(V)$ by sending a matrix $(a_{ij})$ to $(\overline{a_{ij}})$, that is, taking the complex conjugate of each of its entries. Is this an automorphism of $GL(V)$ when $V$ is a vector space over $\Bbb C$?