As the title suggests: does $d x^\mu=g^{\mu\nu} \partial_\nu$, or $\partial_\nu=g_{\nu \mu}dx^\mu$?
This is merely my own guess, from the material that I'm reading; so I'm not sure... The partial derivative operator is still an differential operator in my point of view.
This may be too basic for you, but thank you very much.
Not quite. Although the index balance is correct, in ${\rm d}x^\mu = g^{\mu\nu}\partial_\nu$ you have that the left side is a $1$-form, while the right side is a vector field. What happens here is that if $(M,g)$ is your pseudo-Riemannian manifold (which I assume that in your case should just be a spacetime), the metric induces the so called musical isomorphisms $\flat\colon T_x M \to T_x^*M$ and $\sharp \colon T^*_xM \to T_xM$ for every point $x \in M$. Said isomorphisms are characterized by $v_\flat(w) = g_x(v,w)$ for $v, w \in T_xM$, and also for $\xi \in T_x^*M$, the vector $\xi^\sharp \in T_xM$ is characterized by the relation $\xi(v) = g_x(v, \xi^\sharp)$, for all $v \in T_xM$. You can put all of these isomorphisms together to get maps $\flat : TM \to T^*M$ and $\sharp\colon T^*M\to TM$ between tangent bundles (which I'm still denoting by the same symbols), and then they can be "upgraded" to the section level, yielding isomorphisms $\flat\colon \mathfrak{X}(M) \to \Omega^1(M)$ and $\sharp\colon \Omega^1(M) \to \mathfrak{X}(M)$ between vector fields and $1$-forms. What you actually have for a given coordinate system are the formulas $${\rm d}x^\mu = g^{\mu\nu} (\partial_\nu)_\flat \quad\mbox{and}\quad \partial_\mu = g_{\mu \nu}({\rm d}x^\nu)^\sharp.$$What happens is that people just sweep these isomorphisms under the rug and write just the formulas you have seen in your textbook. For example, to prove the first one, you just have to check that both sides act the same in an arbitrary coordinate vector field $\partial_\lambda$, say. Indeed, we have $$g^{\mu\nu}(\partial_\nu)_\flat(\partial_\lambda) = g^{\mu\nu}g(\partial_\nu,\partial_\lambda) = g^{\mu\nu}g_{\nu\lambda} = \delta^\mu_{\;\lambda} = {\rm d}x^\mu(\partial_\lambda),$$as wanted. The second one follows from the first one (up to index relabeling) by doing $${\rm d}x^\mu = g^{\mu\nu}(\partial_\nu)_\flat \implies g_{\lambda \mu}{\rm d}x^\mu = g_{\lambda \mu}g^{\mu\nu}(\partial_\nu)_\flat = \delta^\nu_{\lambda}(\partial_\nu)_\flat = (\partial_\lambda)_\flat \implies \partial_\lambda = (g_{\lambda\mu}{\rm d}x^\mu)^\sharp = g_{\lambda\mu}({\rm d}x^\mu)^\sharp.$$(Relabel $\mu \to \nu$ and $\lambda \to \mu$ in this order if it makes you more comfortable in the last equality above.)