To prove that a statement follows from the group axioms, we typically write:
Let $G$ denote an arbitrary group... Then... Thus, it s a theorem of the group axioms that...
Presumably, this form of argument should be equally useful in set theory. So to prove that a statement follows from ZFC, it would be useful to be able to write:
Let $Z$ denote an arbitrary model of ZFC. Then... Thus, it s a theorem of ZFC that...
What is the appropriate definition of "model of ZFC" such that this kind of reasoning works?
It is the same definition of a model in any other theory.
This is a set which encodes a structure which interprets the language of set theory, in which the axioms of ZFC are true. In this case this means a pair $\langle M,E\rangle$ such that $E$ is a binary relation and $M$ is non-empty, and the axioms of ZFC are true in this structure.