The objective function of interest is: $$ \phi = \text{log}|PWP^T| + \text{tr}((PWP^T)^{-1}PVP^T) $$ where $P = J + XU^T$ and $V$, $J$ and $U^T$ are known matrices. I assume that the $V$ and $W$ are positive definite.
The first partial derivative of $\phi$ with respect to $X$ is \begin{align*} Y^{-1}(JWU + JVU) + Y^{-1}X(U^TWU + U^TVU) - Y^{-1}ZY^{-1}(JWU + XU^TWU) \end{align*} where $Y = PWP^{T}$ and $Z = PVP^T$.
The first partial derivative with respect to $W$ gives $$ PWP^T = PVP^T. $$
Hence combining the solutions of partial derivatives $X = -JVU(U^TVU)^{-1}$.
If I compute $\nabla_{xx}\phi$ and evaluate at the solution what I would get is $$ [(U^TWUX^T + U^TWJ^T)Y^{-1} \otimes Y^{-1}](I + K)[(U^TWUX^T + U^TWJ^T)^T \otimes I] + (U^TVU \otimes Y^{-1}) $$
where $K$ is the commutation matrix. However, I can't see that it is symmetric. If this is not symmetric, Hessian would not be symmetric. Is it always the case that the Hessian needs to be symmetric?
No, it is not true.
You need that $\frac {\partial^2 f}{\partial x_i\partial x_j} = \frac {\partial^2 f}{\partial x_j\partial x_i}$ in order for the hessian to be symmetric.
This is in general only true, if the second partial derivatives are continuous. This is called Schwarz's theorem.